Between years spent in service to
the Siren, being a parent, and now working at a food bank, I seem to spend my
whole life surrounded by food. I’m not
complaining; I’m bragging.
But one question seems to come up
again and again. And again. And it’s one of those things that I’ve come
to slowly realize I’ve been completely wrong about my entire life.
Do me a favor. Go into your kitchen, take a look in the cupboard,
or look through your fridge. Find some
food that is expired.
You know, food that’s past the date
printed on the package. Expired. No good.
Dangerous. Something that you
need to throw out right now before it gives you botulism.
I know you have some. We’ve all got some. Because none of us ever eat all the food we
buy. We always buy that extra can of
soup, because it was on sale and we thought, “Hey, I might be in the mood for
soup one day.” Or your daughter begs you
to buy those breakfast granola bars, only instead of eating those for breakfast
she insists that you make her chocolate chip pancakes. And like a sucker, you do. (Just me?
Tell me it’s not just me.)
So, grab something, anything, that
expired yesterday, or last week, or last month.
(Or last year…)
Now, don’t throw it out.
Because, it’s not expired.
I’ve believed my entire life that
the dates on food packages are expiration dates. And I’ve believed that food past this
expiration date is suddenly gross, unhealthy, even dangerous to eat.
I’ve been wrong.
Before I really dive into this, if
you don’t mind, all this talk of food is making me hungry. And I just made myself some noodles which I
mixed with a little hoisin sauce and this spicy chili-garlic sauce that expired
five years ago.
I’m going to have a few bites. If I die, this will be a very short essay.
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(Sorry, guys, no such luck.)
Because no matter what the date on
the bottle might say, the food inside is probably just fine.
Those dates on the cans and bottles
and boxes that we buy contain good information, no doubt about it. But no one has ever bothered telling anyone
who doesn’t spend their entire life working with food exactly what that
information is. And at the same time,
those dates actually hide a terrible reality about our food supply that we are
very, very good at overlooking:
We throw out too much food.
How much are we throwing out,
exactly?
While no one is weighing it all,
the USDA estimates that between wilted lettuce, uneaten leftovers, and canned
goods left in the closet for a generation, Americans throw out about 300 pounds
of food every year. Each. That’s every single person in this
country. And most of that 300 pounds you
threw out was probably still edible, even probably still delicious. (Maybe not the lettuce. I’ve never described lettuce as delicious.)
Picture it this way: You go to the
grocery store, buy three bags worth of groceries, and on your way out the door,
you drop one entire bag in the garbage
That’s how much we’re throwing
away.
“No way,” you’re saying. “Not me.
I don’t throw that much out!”
Maybe you don’t. Or, maybe you
do. I’m not sure because I’m not
watching your every move, paying attention to every meal you eat. That’s Facebook’s job.
But on average, estimates of the
value of wasted food work out to roughly $1,600 for an average American
household per year.
That means you’re probably throwing
out $1,600 every year.
And every can of food that is
thrown out is not just a can of food, it’s also all the resources that went
into growing the food, processing the food, packing the food, transporting the
food. Every single piece of food that we
consume (or don’t consume) has a carbon footprint attached to it. Now, estimates of exactly how much food waste
contributes to global climate change vary, based on methodology, but the
variations are somewhere between “really bad” and “even worse,” so the wide
variance doesn’t really matter. Under
the study done by Project Drawdown, it turns out that changing our habits to
reduce our food waste is the third most effective means of reducing greenhouse
gases in the atmosphere.
(Yeah, I know. Every time I mention Global Climate Change,
someone has to chime in that it’s all a hoax by the Chinese, the climate
changes according to natural cycles, and there is no scientific consensus about
whether or not humans are causing climate change. I’m just going to leave this here, and go
back to talking to the grown-ups in the room:
https://www.theguardian.com/environment/climate-consensus-97-per-cent/2014/may/23/john-oliver-best-climate-debate-ever)
And it’s not just that we throw out
tons of food every year. We also have a
problem with food insecurity. At the
exact same time that we fill our garbage bags with food, millions of people,
families, children, retirees, have so little food and so little access to food
that they often have to make terrible choices, like buying food or buying
medicine, or feeding themselves or feeding their kids. These are decisions no one should have to
face.
Let me say this again: Our country is throwing out billions of
pounds of food. And we are letting
people in our country go without enough food.
It doesn’t make any sense, does it?
This raises a massive moral
question: Are we so pre-occupied with income and profits and capitalism that we
will let people go hungry because they don’t have enough money to buy food,
even when we have plenty of extra food that will likely just get tossed out after
it “expires”?
But even people who are food
insecure will look at the date on a can of beef stew, see that it is past date,
and throw it out. It has been so
ingrained in us, from an early age, that you need to look at expiration dates
on food, that someone who is forced to regularly choose between buying food and
buying expensive prescription medicine will throw out past-date food instead of
eating it!
So you have economics, physics, and morality, all telling you the same
thing:
Stop throwing out so much food!
And the solution starts with that
date on that can of stew.
What does this date mean?
The date that ends up on a can of stew
or a can of tuna or a jar of Grey Poupon is placed there by
the food manufacturer.
But of course. |
There is no standard as to what these dates mean or how they are arrived at.
In practice, most shelf-stable food
(packaged food that requires no refrigeration) could, probably, survive until our
country becomes a Mad Max movie after our society collapses because we threw
out so much perfectly good food. BUT,
leaving food on the shelf of a grocery store for years waiting for someone to
buy it doesn’t make the money flow in, so manufacturers have to have some way
of getting food to be taken off the shelves so stores have to buy more food to
refill those shelves.
Now, this is probably more than a
little cynical, but it seems like they fully expect us consumers to do the
exact same thing in our homes. Oh sure,
I want milk in my coffee, but that milk was dated for yesterday. Throw it away! Go to the store and buy more milk!
The thing is, food dates, be they
called Best-By, Sell-By, Use-By, have nothing at all to do with food
safety. Food that has been sitting on a
shelf for too long is not, by nature, unsafe.
The factors that contribute to making food unsafe have nothing at all to
do with the amount of time the food is properly stored. Food becomes unsafe only when something wrong
happens to that food. For example, if a
pathogen is introduced into a food at any point in the manufacturing process,
like salmonella, listeria, E. Coli. Or
if something in the manufacturing process goes wrong, like a can is not
properly sealed. Or if food is not
properly stored, like if canned food is frozen, damaging the
integrity of the can. These things can
make food unsafe, and it really doesn’t matter what the date on the package
says in these cases. The food is just
bad and should not be consumed under any circumstances.
How long does properly preserved
shelf-stable food actually last?
A long time. Canned food, including oysters, tomatoes, and
mixed vegetables, were recovered from a steamboat called the Bertrand, which
sank in the Missouri River in 1865. They
were opened in 1974. No foodborne
pathogens were present. The food was
still safe to eat.
Again, we are separating the idea
of food quality from food safety. Would
century-old food taste good? Probably
not. (Nobody actually ate the food from
the Bertrand; they only tested it for bacteria.) But about a quarter of the fresh food I cook
at home doesn’t taste good, either.
(More, if you ask my kids.) The
point is that the food is safe. It will
not make you sick. Will it taste
funny? Maybe, but that is why you have
hot sauce.
So, this whole issue around Best-By
dates seems to have a simple fix, right?
Just get rid of the dates!
Not quite. Best-By dates serve a legitimate
purpose. A couple, in fact. In the event of a food recall (think
salmonella-contaminated peanut butter), they can help consumers identify and
dispose of unsafe food. And yes, food
will generally taste better if eaten before the Best-By date than it will if
eaten, say, five or six years after the Best-By date. Though, not THAT much better.
But we still call them expiration
dates.
That’s what needs to change. Not the language on the cans, but our
language, our understanding, our mental attitude toward preserved food.
Because these are not “expiration”
dates in any meaningful way.
My point here is simply this: Before you throw out food, stop and ask yourself if you really need to throw it out? Does it look funny? Does it smell bad? Is the can bulging like a squirrel trying to fit one-too-many acorns in its cheeks?
If the answer is no, there is a very good chance that
the food that you are about to throw out is safe, nutritious, and tasty.
We’ve been conditioned by the food
manufacturers to think about food in terms of freshness and expiration
dates. We need to learn to ignore dates
and think about food in terms of social, environmental, and economic
impacts. Food is vital to health, it is
energy, it costs money, and access to good food is a basic human right.
Worried about getting sick? Practice good food safety in your home: wash
your hands, wash your counters, store food properly, and don’t forget to wash your hands.
And the next time you catch
yourself looking at a date and saying (or even thinking) the word, “expired,”
stop and say, out loud, “It isn’t expired.”
You know those cans of “expired”
food you pulled out of your pantry?
Don’t throw them away. Instead,
save yourself money by turning them into dinner. Don’t be afraid. They’ll taste fine.
And when you’re done, take the
money you would have spent on buying new food and donate it to your local food
pantry. They can use it to save more
food that would otherwise end up in a landfill and give it to someone who needs
that food but can’t afford it. Save
money, save the planet, save another human being, and enjoy a delicious dinner
while you’re at it.
Expired has never tasted so good.
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